I installed it a couple of months ago (Varta A8 AGM) and everything is fine, I got it at Costco for 130 so I didn’t have to wait for shipping. The start-stop may not fail just because of low battery voltage; in most cases, it’s due to a system bug that is resolved by updating the PCM in Honda (there’s a bulletin if you’re interested), although people usually don’t fix it because they prefer it not to work 
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Hi there… There’s something that’s driving me crazy. For a while now, I’ve been driving the car less. I used to take it to work every day—25km each way. Now I leave it sitting for about 4-5 days and then take it to work 3 days in a row, doing the same route. For the past 2 weeks, it’s been doing weird things. The first day I take the car, more or less… if I have to maneuver while stationary… when turning the steering wheel all the way, the screen turns off and some interior lights dim. I think it’s a battery voltage issue. I took it to the dealership, taking advantage of the fact that I had maintenance to do, and they told me it’s perfect, just that it’s not being used much. And that it won’t leave me stranded since it’s perfect. That it shouldn’t, even though it’s the original one and it’s 7 years old. They sent me a photo and this is the result. I don’t understand it, but I just don’t trust it. Is that voltage okay? I don’t know if it’s while stationary or with the engine running; I have no idea about mechanics. I drove about 40 km to get to the shop and a few more km the days before. I hope you can help me. Thanks.
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If the battery is 7 years old, I’d probably start thinking about replacing it, based on what you’re saying. A couple of years ago during a service check they told me the battery was perfect, just like they told you—photo of the tester and everything was OK—two weeks later the battery was dead.
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Of course. I insisted several times. That they should just change it for me while I was already there. That there wouldn’t be any issues. But they told me it wasn’t necessary. That it was perfect, and they kept showing me the photo. That I should just drive the car and it would charge on its own, and that it wouldn’t leave me stranded in 7 or 8 months or anything like that. I insisted because I said what if it leaves me stranded soon… They insisted it wouldn’t. It starts fine and everything’s okay. I don’t get it at all. That’s why I’m so annoyed. And it was just that specific thing twice in 15 days. Then, while driving the car, nothing at all.
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12.2V for a charged battery is a low voltage. It should be at least 12.4V to be in good condition.
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Thanks. I’m a bit suspicious. And while stationary, I still see the voltage drop when I turn the steering wheel. Anyway, I’ll call this week to have it replaced so I don’t keep stressing about it. They told me the battery should charge if I drive the car more. According to them, it was because I don’t drive it as much… that it’s low on charge. But I don’t know. Taking the risk… since I don’t drive many miles to get to work. A 20-minute drive round trip…
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At 7 years old, that battery has more than served its purpose. These cars with so much “technology” are very sensitive to a battery that’s past its prime, and even if the car still starts, you might start getting random errors due to low voltage. Plus, you’re making the alternator work extra hard. My humble opinion is that you should get a new one; the one you have has certainly earned its retirement with honors.
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Yeah, yeah. I can’t believe it. How long it’s lasting. I’ll call on Monday. It starts up really well. Perfect. But I’m not going to risk it. I regret not just ignoring them and telling them to change it when I went this week… but oh well. I’m still in time.
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I bought this little gadget that indicates the battery status. It gives an audible warning if it’s charging incorrectly or needs replacement, and it charges both via solar panels and by cable. I think more than one person here might be interested.
Key concepts:
- SOH (State of Health): Measures degradation and long-term aging.
- SOC (State of Charge): Measures the current energy level of the battery at that precise moment (what you see on your phone’s screen, for example)
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Buenas tardes, bueno toca cambiar la bateria al civic… el mio es el 1.5 182cv, que marca y modelo me recomendais? he leido cosas referente al star stop, a mi particularmente prefiero que no vaya asi no se olvida desconectar. eso no se si es al poner una bateria con menos amperios quizas no detecta el sistema que debe funcionar el star stop, no se en que consiste la verdad, que opinais de las baterias YUASA, ya que en las motos honda son las que suelen venir de fabrica y son muy buenas para mi experiencia, pero no se si las hay para nuestros coches o no, bueno espero que alguien me pueda ayudar muchas gracias de antemano, un saludo.
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No te ha dado por leer, al menos, los… no sé, 100 mensajes anteriores?
Morrillu: igual se te disipan las dudas… o te entra el hambre
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hola, si mire unos cuantos mensajes pero al final contra mas info me crea mas dudas no se… bueno era por si alguien me dice alguna mas concretamente y tambien si alguien tiene la marca YUASA, gracias por el comentario
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Pues sí, hay gente que las lleva. Y en el hilo, está hablado de ellas varias veces (básicamente porque he hablado yo de ellas).
Es más, las que monta ahora Honda de serie son Yuasa, como me confirmaron en el concesionario
Resto de dudas no sé de dónde surgen. Está explicado lo de las diferentes tecnologías, la gente ha puesto la que monta de Varta también, opiniones sobre AGM o EFB…
Y si pones una batería de menos amperios de los recomendados, lo menos preocupante es el Start&Stop porque seguramente, ni tendrás Start.
11 veces se nombra Yuasa desde el mensaje #242… Con la lupa te sale en media décima de segundo
Morrillu: mirar, miraste poco, eh…
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Yo, tras barajar varias opciones, al final opté por poner la oficial de Honda que es Varta y al fin y al cabo me duró …6 años y seguía. Ni tan mal
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Pues hoy me ha tocado a mí, la varta agm por 110€+ 10 de envio en bateriasonline.com, es el modelo nuevo, y con fecha de fabricación de hace 4 meses
En mi caso el coche me avisó con 2 días de antelación, que note que arrancaba flojo, y como ya me sabía que no suelen avisar, me puse a comparar modelos y precios, y 2 días después el coche ya no arrancaba
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Joder, vaya poesía e ingeniería le poneis algunos a cambiar una batería de coche. Cualquiera de 60AH o 65AH va tirar de sobra, que solo son voltios.
A mi la original me cascó al año y poco, en garantía me la cambiaron y la segunda aguantó 6 años.
Me cascó un alternador con la segunda original cuanto tenía la batería 3 años.
Ahora le he puesto esta:
85 € mas IVA en LAUSAN. El voltaje está clavao casi a 12.40v .
5 minutos cambiarla.