Controlling DPF Regenerations in i-DTEC 1.6 with Torque and OBD

Hello! I’m bringing you a DIY tutorial to control regenerations in our cars. In the forum where I saw it, it worked for the Civic IX 2.2 and 1.6 i-DTEC, so I suppose it will also work for the X 1.6. It would be nice if those of you with gasoline cars with a particulate filter also tried it, out of curiosity (in a comment below it seems it doesn’t work on gasoline but it’s not fully confirmed).

First, a brief explanation: the DPF (also called FAP or GPF in gasoline cars) is the diesel particulate filter that traps pollutants, located in the exhaust system. To prevent it from becoming saturated, when the car decides, a “regeneration” is performed, where the particles are burned at high temperatures.

The most important thing about this, to take care of the system (and generally the rest of the components), is to know exactly when it is regenerating and when it ends. The worst for the car is if the regenerations are not completed. The DPF will fill up, fuel dilution in the engine oil will increase, and it may cause problems…

I will explain a way that I find comfortable and easy to control these regenerations:

Tools:

Steps

  1. First, install Torque Pro on our device. And to import the pids from the file: go to Settings - Manage PIDs - Import CSV and select the file with the PIDs.

  2. Plug the OBD into the car and turn it on. In case you’re lost, it plugs in here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20XHWG9R8qc

  3. In the phone’s Bluetooth settings, sync the OBD, the password is usually 1234 (if it’s not, the OBD seller will tell you).

  4. Now, again in Torque, go to Settings - OBD2 Adapter Options - In connection type, select Bluetooth; and in choose the BL device, the synced ones will load, select the OBD.

  5. Enter Realtime information, the panel where Torque’s gauges appear.

    We will add the screens in Torque of the imported PIDS we want: hold down an empty spot - Add screen - choose the type we like best (I use Digital Screen, if with background Graph) And add iDtec… Of those available, the ones I consider most important:

  • The “PM value” (iDtec calculated PM value), the main one that will help us. It indicates the amount of particles (in grams) accumulated/retained in the fap. When it reaches a certain amount (6-12 G depending on use, car… in mine it’s at 10.2) is when regeneration is activated, the temperature rises (seen with the iDtec EGT sensor) and the PM will decrease to 0.0 if everything is fine.
  • The active regeneration (iDtec DPF active regeneration), you could say it’s the state of regeneration; in mine, it goes to ‘79’ or ‘14’ (each one will have to confirm it in their car) while regenerating. At ‘0’ when it’s ready by temperature for regeneration or when it’s finished and at ‘129’ when the car is cold and won’t be able to regenerate yet.
  • There are values for the distance and time since the last complete and correct regeneration (when the PM reaches 0.0), normally it regenerates every 500-700kms. In the Civic X, I understand that regeneration is more frequent to “pollute even less”.
  • You also have the differential pressure (iDTEC DPF differential pressure, “DPF diff.pres”), it indicates the pressure difference between the DPF’s inlet and outlet; higher differential pressure means the filter is fuller, accelerating more also increases it. It’s a pid that can be important, but having the rest I don’t use it.

A couple of examples of how I have it: This, for example, was the first time I caught it regenerating, it shows 1144 kms since the last regeneration because the previous one was left halfway

This is just after regenerating (the distance resets, the state goes to 0’ and the temperature drops)

Extras * To continue using the device where we have Torque (car tablet, mobile…) I only carry the amount of soot/PM as a Floating Widget. To do this, with Torque, we hold down on the desired gauge (PM in my case) and from the options menu, select “Make Floating Widget”. A clock with the PM gauge is generated that stays on the screen, we can go to other applications to continue using the device and it will remain on top. If we hold down on it, we can move it around the screen to where it’s most convenient.

[[ Under Construction ]] * PID * Honda Tablet: On the car’s tablet, you can install it and control everything without needing to use the mobile. Simply install a compatible version of Torque, if it’s older the pids can’t be imported by file and will have to be imported by entering the parameters manually, but the steps are almost the same. On the Civic X tablet, due to the Android version, a version can be installed that doesn’t have this problem, the Civic IX tablet is older and is where the Pids issue occurs.

Credits: DPF follow-up with Honda HDS software | Page 16 | 2006+ Honda Civic Forum

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Muy grande. Así lo hice yo y lo llevo.

De diez.

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Buenas, sabes si para iphone hay una app similar que se pueda utilizar?

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Buenas. Pues creo que hay Torque también.
De todas formas, el problema principal con iPhone es el bluetooth, no la app.
Tienes que comprar un OBD que vaya por wifi y la app pues que puedas importarle parámetros (los Pids que comento). Busca que seguro que hay tutoriales.
Yo lo que mas te recomendaría es que lo instalases en la radio/tablet del coche. Lo que no estoy seguro es que versión será compatible. Yo tengo el Cicic anterior y trae android 4.0. Pero creo que el vuestro es 4.2.2 y ya si es compatible con las siguientes versiones de Torque
O cualquier android viejo te valdrá (mejor si tiene Android 5.1 para más compatibilidad)

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Hello, has anyone managed to get it working on a gasoline Civic X?

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Hello. As I mentioned at the beginning, I believe it hasn’t been tested and I would like someone to try it out to add it if it works. That said, and also in response to the other thread you mentioned

In gasoline cars, because combustion is much cleaner (they generate 5-10 times fewer particles) and the exhaust temperature is much higher (200-400º for diesel compared to about 500º in gasoline), it’s very, very rare that a regeneration is needed. For it to be necessary, you would have to always make very short trips where it doesn’t heat up properly and accumulates particles for a long time. Since as soon as the car hits the road/highway for a while, it cleans itself.

Now, if you can, feel free to try following the tutorial; the OBD is €7 and it’s always good to have it in case something happens. It’s very possible that some of the mentioned PIDs work and provide details about your GPF (gasoline particulate filter), although I don’t think they are all the same.

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Hello alvius95, thanks for the response. Sorry for not mentioning it in my previous message, but I did try executing all the steps you described, but it doesn’t provide data, it lets me put them on the dashboard, they are enabled, but it doesn’t read anything. It’s precisely because of the routes I mostly take, about 25 km between highway and city but only 8 on the highway, the rest in the city.

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Oh, what a shame it doesn’t work, which OBD are you using? If you can, send me a screenshot of the values that appear in those PIDs in Torque, with the engine running. I’m not an expert, but maybe I can see something. With those trips, you can be at ease with a gasoline engine anyway. The most important thing is that the trips are not excessively short because it doesn’t reach temperature. But with 25 km and some time on the road, a gasoline engine will maintain well. In diesel, it can be problematic in the long run.

By the way, I forgot to mention that I tried the LED on the rear window, and it didn’t work, at least in my car. It seems that it works in PSA and those using their engines. I don’t think it works in more brands that I know of.

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I have this and an autel, but the autel doesn’t go with torque.

And the data shows zero, the only thing is the catalyst temperature that does show

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What I don’t quite understand is why brands don’t provide an indicator for when a regeneration is taking place to avoid stopping it. I think I read somewhere that it’s not advisable to leave it halfway, or at least that repairs for the filter can be quite costly.

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It’s bad to leave them halfway, yes, that’s what I explain in the post. But with gasoline, there’s no problem, although I’m curious to see how it goes. Why don’t brands say anything? Well, so that customers keep driving and forget about it; if it breaks, it’s more workshop repairs for them. I have no idea if that OBD has the necessary protocols/chip to read things; the more expensive ones usually have it, but I’m not sure. It’s strange that they come out as 0, maybe they are different PIDs then. You can see the temperature of the catalyst, which will be higher than that of the DPF as it is closer to the engine but similar. In Hondas, I think they are attached, like it’s the same device 2-in-1, so the heat is utilized.

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Would this gadget work? It costs almost the same as the one you mentioned, but it seems better (I have no idea xD, I just saw that it has many sales and is more expensive)

I’ve ordered it to see how it goes, let’s see if I can manage, it seems very interesting to be able to control this, it should already come from the factory, at least something that warns you that it is regenerating.

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Does anyone know if with the small Autel (AP200 I think) you can see the regenerations without needing Torque or any other app?

I don’t know if I’m the only one, but I have NEVER noticed a regeneration. No increase in consumption, no deep engine noise, nothing at all. The only time I’ve seen a very high consumption (around 70L) was right after changing the battery. Does anyone else not notice it? :grimacing: I guess it’s because I try to rev it enough when it’s hot so it doesn’t get clogged with soot, or at least that’s what I hope :joy:

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Hello! I understand that you also have an idtec. I know that other people have seen fap topics with other apps/devices of that style, but I don’t know which ones work and how they are viewed. Regarding regenerations, I don’t notice it at the moment either, the average consumption is noticeable but on trips of 15-20kms, you might get something more than half a liter more on average. On longer trips, the difference will be very small and on very short trips, it won’t even happen. It’s also noticeable if after a trip you turn off the engine and the fan keeps running… Very likely the regeneration was left unfinished. That 70L consumption you mention will be due to a fault or a lot of idling + short trip.

[quote=“doverkan69, post:13, topic:12014”] Would this gadget work? It costs almost the same as the one you mentioned, but it seems better (I have no idea xD, I just saw it has many sales and is more expensive)

I ordered it to see how it goes, to see if I can manage, it seems very interesting to be able to control this [/quote]

Did you try it, how did it go? The gadget seems to have the same chip, it looks exactly the same but with a nicer design.

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Yes! The X.

I haven’t even noticed it in that half-liter you mentioned :man_facepalming:t3: and the times the fan has stayed on have been after pushing it hard, but normally I let it cool down a bit at idle, so that’s another way of not noticing it :joy:

That 70L consumption was due to the battery change, it seems to lose the memory of that data until it stabilizes again.

Thanks for the info dude! :folded_hands:

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What kind of trips do you usually make, and how many kilometers does the car have? Perhaps if the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) is in very good condition (due to long trips and few total kilometers or “luck”), it regenerates every many kilometers and you don’t notice it. For me, it regenerates from 450 km to 720 km, I’ve seen, and I can’t quite understand why sometimes it fills up sooner (I get the feeling that in summer with the heat it fills up faster) and other times later. Generally, it starts regenerating when there are 10g of PM in the DPF and the coolant has reached 90º (actual, the car’s dashboard shows the service temperature starting from 60º).

Anyway, for the €5 that the OBD I sent costs and that in the Civic X you can easily install Torque on the radio and view it comfortably (without needing to use a mobile phone, there are tutorials in this forum on installing apps, Torque…), I would install it so you can be more assured that it will last longer in the long run.

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Right now, they are not usually very long trips, to be honest, so I don’t think… I’m going to assume it has more to do with occasionally stepping on it hard, because I’ve had the car for 5 years, with approximately 155,000 km, and there was only one time I think they forced a DPF regeneration at Honda.

The thing about the OBD and the app is mainly because I already have the Autel, and because I don’t want to load the tablet with anything else. It would seem very strange to me if with the Autel you couldn’t see anything, not even the grams in the DPF, but there are so many things you can see that it’s very easy to get lost :sweat_smile: I’ll investigate at some point to see!

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“Stepping on it hard” doesn’t help, it’s a tall tale. If you install that, you’ll see the exhaust temperatures, and just by stepping on it, they won’t get clean. If you accelerate, it might go from 500º without reaching 600º, but just a few seconds of acceleration; to clean, it needs to stay close to 600º for a while to start cleaning, and you won’t achieve that unless you’re going up a very long mountain pass at full throttle without letting go of the accelerator for even a second (therefore without curves or traffic) for several minutes. Precisely by stepping on it, more soot is generated, which will then need to be cleaned… If you’ve already had to force the DPF regeneration once, that FAP won’t be in great shape anymore. I have the Torque on the Civic IX’s radio, which is much worse, and the “tablet doesn’t charge…” Also, the point is to leave it running in the background always, so it doesn’t bother you but you know about the regenerations and don’t leave them halfway. *I just updated the post explaining better and adding more things.

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