I have a few questions for Civic 1.0 owners who have the Bluespark module installed.
I’ve been noticing that although it gives me more power during acceleration, the car vibrates much more, especially at low speeds.
Yesterday I tried starting from a standstill in the cold and it was vibrating like crazy; then 20 minutes later when I got to work, it was also vibrating quite a bit at 50km/h in third gear.
Yesterday afternoon I took the module off for the drive home and the vibrations disappeared. So did the better acceleration :’)
But I’m not sure if that means that, even if I clear the warning and the car runs fine for another 15 days, it’s still what’s causing the vibrations—do you know what I mean? Should it or shouldn’t it be vibrating that much if the wiring was 100% okay? That’s what I want to confirm.
Have you noticed the vibrations since the first day you installed it? What I’m almost certain of (without having a 1.0 or a Bluespark) is that the vibrations aren’t normal.
If the wiring is messed up and the signal isn’t right, I imagine it could be causing poor “interpretations” of the values and could trigger exactly what’s happening to you.
I’d say not from day one, definitely not.
It’s more recent, but even so, the fact that the error pops up 2 days in a row and then goes 20 days without appearing only to come back again… I know the vibrations of the stock 1.0 itself, but these are outrageous, which is why I wanted to know if any other 1.0 + Bluespark user had felt or experienced the same thing.
As you say, maybe it’s all down to the wiring, but I wanted to make sure before buying new wiring… I don’t want to buy it only for it to turn out to be the module itself and we’ve screwed up, you know XD
Without Blu it doesn’t do it, with Blu it does: it’s clear it’s because of that.
There are two components: the module and the wiring. Since you know the wiring is messed up, the first step should be to rule that out by replacing it. Or you could ask someone who has one to let you run a test. I’m sure if you offer a few tapas and some good company, you’ll have plenty of volunteers.
Just because you clear the fault code doesn’t mean it’s working properly. The module is not an ECU remap. It’s a device that takes the correct signals and spoofs them so the ECU thinks the sensors are reading something else. With damaged wiring, some of the signals it might give (mV or mA, for example—I’m just making that up) could be incorrect, VERY INCORRECT. And then the ECU tries to correct something that isn’t actually happening, and you could easily be wrecking the engine.
Morrillu: @DAVICIVIC’s wheel analogy is so good that nothing I say will be able to top it
Well, look, the idea that I might be screwing up the engine has freaked me out, and thank god I took it off in time and it hasn’t been a crazy long time. I’ll have to meet up with someone—which was the whole point of the thread—to see if anyone had an idea and if the chance came up, take a look.
The fear is what I said, buying new wiring only for everything to stay the same and to keep screwing up the engine…
(again, I’m already freaked out and paranoid and nothing’s going to talk me down from it XD)
The MAP sensor is the intake manifold pressure sensor, and in the 1.0, it is used to measure airflow since they don’t have a MAF sensor. If the wiring or the module is failing, it’s best to consult with Bluespark to find out how to fix it, and in the meantime, it’s better not to use it.
Well, then I’ll probably do that.
A friend already advised me to remove it and decide whether to leave it off or keep it. I’ll get in touch with them or with Jota, who knew about the matter, and as you say, not use it in the meantime. It’s taken me way too long… “luckily” I took it off just as it started giving me real problems (vibrations).
