Tutorial for switching to 18" tires

[Mastersierra]

The Civic went on sale in 2017. Back then, not everything was SUVs with 20" wheels, and being a rational car, they decided to offer it with 17" wheels for all versions except the Type R. Nowadays, it seems ridiculous for a car like that to have 17" wheels when even the most basic cars like an Aygo or a 208 have 18".

On the other hand, the stock wheels are not, personally, attractive or light (approximately 12kg), so it’s logical that many of us consider changing wheels at some point. This raises several issues, such as the fact that changing wheels is not cheap, it doesn’t increase the car’s value, it makes tire changes more expensive, and there could be potential issues with the MOT…

For my part, after reading all the threads about wheels and tires and trying to find answers, I am ready to share the information in case it helps someone.

Approved wheel measurements:

• Bolt pattern: 5x114.3
• Hub: 64.1, centering rings can be added, usually at no additional cost, and without affecting the car’s performance.
• Offset (ET): 50, something between 40 and 60 could be compatible. It is not recommended to deviate from these measurements as it would require spacers that could negatively affect the car’s performance.
• Width: ideally 8, although we can go to 8.5. With a width of 9, a 240 wide tire would have to be fitted, which I find excessive.

Tire measurements on the data sheet:

• 215/55 R16 89V
• 235/45 R17 93V
• 235/40 R18 95W

Important clarification: the load index must be equal to or greater than the minimums indicated in the approved measurements. In our case, it is 89.

Comparison of tire prices between 17" and 18": considering equivalent measurements that do not differ by more than 3% in the diameter of the wheel-tire set. Prices taken from carter-cash for Goodyear Eagle F1 tires.

225/45 R17 91Y → €80
225/40 R18 92Y → €82
235/45 R17 93V → €109
235/40 R18 95W → €120

Note: I currently use 225/45 R17 94V and, besides being cheaper than the 235, I passed the MOT without any problem because it is equivalent, and my consumption has dropped by 0.2l. You can see my consumption here: http://spritmonitor.de/es/detalle/1393482.html

My favorite 18" wheels: considering that the stock wheels weigh approximately 12kg.

Best quality/price: Autec Wizard - 9kg - €800

Best weight with very good quality: Racing Division VR5 - 8.1kg - €1000

Lowest weight with good price: Tomason TN25 - 7.9kg - €900.

New brand, with very good quality-price: SpacWheels SW22 - 8.2kg - €820. The problem is that they only sell them in ET40, although theoretically, it should be within margins.

Outside of these, we have JP, the famous Juan Ramón, oops I mean Japan Racing haha. A Polish company that offers wheels with imitations of iconic designs, mostly casting which, despite being lighter than stock, usually weigh around 10kg and are not much cheaper.

Above, we have more premium brands like OZ, which are obviously a good option for those who can afford them and don’t want to pay customs. You have their secondary brands like Sparco or MSW. Example:

Sparco Asseto Gara, those of @Sirone but they weigh 10kg haha

And for the deep pockets, you have Enkei from €1500, Volk around €2500, or the Spoon ones that cost approximately €4000.

I will be providing more information as I progress in the process. Any questions, I am happy to answer.

[danihensal]

Very useful, thank you for the work.

I agree that the stock wheels look small and bland, especially for the Sport versions. The car’s aesthetics change completely when fitting a larger and more aggressive design.

I bought mine already modified by the previous owner, they are 19" JR11 with 245/35 tires. If I had changed them myself, I probably would have gone with 18" with 235/40, like the optional ones on the spec sheet, to maintain better balance and I think they are sufficient; and perhaps also something of higher quality, but as they are, they look really cool:

[Morrillu]

I will keep an eye on this “mental rambling,” and I add a little something of general interest.

@Mastersierra

ET: 50, it could be compatible with something between 40 and 60. It is not recommended to go outside these measurements as it would require spacers that could negatively affect the car’s behavior.

My go-to mechanic talks about a range of 5-8 mm that can be modified in the car’s track width either with spacers or ET, to improve behavior without destroying the hubs and losing suspension geometries when compressed. Anything outside of that worsens the car’s behavior.

He also mentioned that without upgrading to Big Brake, staying on 17 for street use is the best in terms of weight/performance/comfort.

Morrillu: in another life, I’ll put on some rims, but in this one…

[Mastersierra]

ET45 or 50 is the way to go, and if you’re only interested in performance, you can change wheels while maintaining the diameter, and look for lightness.

Being a 17" wheel instead of an 18", it will be cheaper, lighter, and will respect the stock setup, which, after all, is the one that dozens of Honda engineers worked on to optimize the car.

What is usually said is that you should use the minimum diameter that can accommodate the braking system. That’s how we’ve had Porsche 911s with 15" wheels in the past, and I agree that what we have today is excessive in many ways.

[marinexix]

I just ordered some Tomason TN30 18x8 et45 with Falken Azenis FK520 tires for 1200 euros. I hope they work out well since I’m switching from the factory originals and Michelins to these. Falkens have been really good to me; I have them on a 2002 Nissan Primera in 17” x 8 and they perform brilliantly.

[Gorka13]

I’m running some Japan Racing SL01 18x8.5 ET 35. They fit nice and flush (if you drive on gravel, stones kick up) and they pass inspection.

[Gorka13]

I’m running some Japan Racing SL01 18x8.5 ET 35. They fit nice and flush (if you drive on gravel, stones fly up) and they pass the ITV.