Hay un largo debate sobre eso, si quieres mirártelo por el foro. Pero en resumen si vale. El 0w16 no existía como tal y se le puso de nombre hybrid.
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Acea C2 sólo existe en aceites W30. Acea C2 significa bajo hths y mid saps/cenizas (válido para fap).
En aceites menos viscosos como los W20 tienes que buscar C5 o mirar la ficha si es que te la dan bien y el parámetro de Saps/ cenizas debe estar máximo en 0.80
Acabo de mirar la ficha del Ravenol RAVENOL EFE Extra Fuel Economy SAE 0W-16 | RAVENOL y tiene 0.9 de Sulphated Ash/ cenizas lo que significa que ( >0.8 ) es un aceite full saps, puede ser peligroso para el fap sobretodo si haces trayectos cortos y no controlas las regeneraciones.
Yo desde luego que 0w20 probaría, 0w16 me parece ya pasarse
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No necesariamente es un full saps. Eso depende también de los niveles de fosforo y azufre en la formulación.
El aceite Ravenol EFE Extra Fuel Economy SAE 0W-16 es una formulación moderna diseñada para motores que requieren aceites de baja viscosidad y alto rendimiento en términos de eficiencia de combustible. Según las especificaciones y estándares actuales, este aceite *no es un “full SAPS”, sino más bien un aceite *“low SAPS” o “mid SAPS”.
¿Por qué no es “full SAPS”?
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Bajo contenido de sulfato de ceniza (Sulphated Ash): Los aceites “low SAPS” tienen un contenido reducido de cenizas sulfatadas, generalmente por debajo del 0.8%, para proteger los sistemas de postratamiento de emisiones, como los catalizadores y los filtros de partículas diésel (DPF). El Ravenol 0W-16 está diseñado para cumplir con especificaciones modernas que limitan estos componentes.
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*Bajo contenido de fósforo y azufre: Los aceites “low SAPS” también reducen los niveles de fósforo y azufre para minimizar el impacto en los sistemas de control de emisiones. Esto es típico en aceites que cumplen con estándares como **ACEA C5, **API SP, o *ILSAC GF-6.
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Compatibilidad con motores modernos: Este aceite está formulado para motores que requieren aceites de baja viscosidad y alta eficiencia, lo que suele ir de la mano con restricciones en SAPS para proteger los sistemas de emisiones.
Especificaciones clave del Ravenol EFE Extra Fuel Economy SAE 0W-16:
- Cumple con estándares como * API SP, o *ILSAC GF-6, que es una especificación para aceites “low SAPS”.
- Diseñado para motores de gasolina y diésel modernos, incluyendo aquellos con sistemas de inyección directa y turboalimentación.
- Optimizado para reducir el consumo de combustible y emisiones.
En resumen, el Ravenol EFE Extra Fuel Economy SAE 0W-16 es un aceite “low SAPS”, no “full SAPS”, ya que está diseñado para cumplir con las exigencias de los motores modernos y los sistemas de control de emisiones.
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De donde has sacado ese texto? Parece de chatgpt o alguien que no tiene ni idea.
Para que sea mid saps se tiene que cumplir que las cenizas sean 0.8 cómo máximo. Además de lo del azufre, tienen que cumplirse todas.
Para que sea Low Saps tiene que ser maximo 0.6 o 0.5 (no recuerdo exactamente) de cenizas.
Lo del azufre, no me sé las medidas pero si no cumple lo de las cenizas ya no es mid (ni menos low) saps.
En el texto ese, mismamente lo dice:
Luego dice esto:
Esto es una inventada completa, son estándares modernos en los que no hay muchas cenizas, pero no tienen por qué ser mid (y mucho menos Low) saps.
Está lleno de full saps con esos estándares, la diferencia es que antes tenían 1,2-1,5 de cenizas y ahora esos full saps suelen tener en torno a 1.
Si las cenizas son mas de 0,8 es un aceite full saps, no hay más.
En coches gasolina con filtro de partículas (gpf suele llamarse) no hay problema por pasarte un poco del máximo de cenizas, ya que en gasolina se quema más fácil y no dan problema.
En diesel (fap, dpf) cuesta quemar más este hollín por lo tanto con aceite que se pasa de cenizas puede formarse un hollín que luego le cueste mucho (o ni pueda) quemarse.
*Creo que en web que he pasado, la propia de Ravenol pone claramente que tiene 0.9 de cenizas, así que no hay duda que NO es un mid ni low saps. Al ser tan poco viscoso seguramente hayan tenido que tirar de unos pocos adititivos de más para hacer un aceite bueno.
Mannol ni da esa información, así que imagínate lo que puede salir ahí
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Pues lo saque del deepSeek, Y como te dice: “GENERALMENTE” no significa siempre. valor de SA 0.8% por debajo. Insisto no siempre. Porque? porque tienes que buscar la relacion de azufre y fosforo.
Otra dato:
Significado de las siglas SAPS
- (SA): Sulfated Ashes, cenizas sulfatadas en ingles
- (P): del símbolo químico del Fosforo (Phosphorus en ingles)
- (S): del símbolo químico del Azufre (Sulfur en ingles)
Y por ultimo no olvides los certificados del fabricante que incluye el aceite y que recomienda el propio fabricante en su pdf
HONDA 08232-P99D-4LHE (DESPUES DE LA D INDICA LOS LITROS DEL PRODUCTO PUEDE PONER 4L O 1L)
Genuine Honda Green Diesel Oil (Earth Dreams Technology) 1.6 i-DTEC Diesel Engine Oil 1 Litre (08232P99D1LPRO) - Cox Motor Parts
Como comprobaras es su aceite genuino que lleva el mismo certificado que el revenol y el mannol
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A ver, si estás preguntando a una IA mal vamos.
Mid saps significa que las cenizas son menores de 0.8, low saps aún menos.
Esto tiene que cumplirse si o si, si no se cumple no es un mid ni low saps, eso es objetivo una regla oficial ACEA y clara.
Y TAMBIÉN deben cumplir un máximo de azufre, también no es que una cosa sustituya la otra.
Aquí puedes verlo claramente, en la primera tabla tienes los limites Oficiales de Acea, no los líos que se está llevando la IA que usas.
Luego, eso de Honda NO es un certificado, es una recomendación. Lo que significa que no está certificado, sólo recomendado.
Y aún asi, donde ves en el Ravenol Efe que tenga esa recomendación (ni certificación)?
Te vuelvo a mandar la web de Ravenol porque no sé qué estarás mirando y la del Mannol
Ya lo dije aquí, tienen la … P99S tanto el Ravenol con el Mannol. La de Honda nuestro que acabas de mandar es P99D
La S es del aceite del modelo híbrido, los cuales como he dicho no suelen llevar filtro o partículas o no dan problemas. https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-approved-oils/genuine-honda-hybrid-engine-oil-1-ltr-honda-green-oil
Y no, no es el mismo aceite, puedes pedir en Coxmotors las SDS de ambos aceites que te las darán y verás como son aceites distintos sólo con ver los datos que tienen en las fichas.
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Lo recomendable si alguien va a usar IA para contestar en un foro es o bien hacer una cita indicando que viene de una IA como el tocho que se ha pegado aqui o indicar de alguna forma que se ha usado IA. Las IA pueden tener alucinaciones y una respuesta incorrecta puede confundir a los lectores.
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Por eso yo siempre pongo “desde la barra del bar” cuando escribo desde la cafetería.
Morrillu: esta ha sido desde la barra del bar
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Bueno, una IA y morrillu estan muy parejas, dan mucha información y pueden tener alucinaciones 
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I’m bringing up the topic again. How did it go with the 0w16, did you notice any difference over time? Better or worse than before?
And by the way, as I mentioned, the Ravenol EFE 0w16 corresponds to the Honda green hybrid (P99S 1LHE), not the diesel one (P99D 1LHE). You can order from Coxmotors or other stores and find their SDS which have quite a bit of information about the oils, I was comparing them and it was clear that they were obviously different oils.
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So, to be more specific, is there a direct equivalent to Honda Green Diesel 0w16 oil (the original) with any of Ravenol, Mannol, or another brand, or are there only equivalents in 0w20? If I had a diesel, I’d be completely confused.
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Well, the thing is that I’ve noticed that a few seconds after starting the car, the engine area makes a bit of noise for a few seconds and then it goes away… we’ve always used 0w30, the car was bought with 74 and now it has 190k…
With the confusion you all have about which oil and which not… one no longer knows which is which, but I appreciate the effort… let’s see if they give feedback on that 0w16…
Now, if 0w20 can already be very thin, and considering the temperatures in Spain, specifically Toledo, and the number of kilometers my wife does (about 35k/year), do you recommend going below 0w30?
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Can you share the SDS?
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Hello, I’m not sure if I mentioned it here before.
I went to do the maintenance on the Honda and asked for the oil with the reference recommended by some Excel sheet I found online for our engine.
This is the budget they gave me. In the end, I changed the pollen filter myself and saved some money.
At first, I got the impression that it was a bit smoother than what they were using during the contracted maintenance, but maybe that was just confirmation bias.
Another thing that caught my attention was that the technician stared at it; it seems it wasn’t the oil they usually worked with in the workshop, and he opened the bottle and looked at it for a few seconds.
Since I don’t use the car much now, and when I do, it’s usually for trips of at least 30 minutes, I couldn’t really tell you…
For the next oil change, I’ll repeat, maybe I’m wasting a bit of money, but I feel more at ease, and I hope this car stays with me for many years, so I’d rather spend the money on maintenance with this oil. (I had asked for a quote at the workshop where I took my old car, and they almost asked for the same amount. In the end, I saved a few euros by changing the pollen filter myself as recommended here, buying one from Amazon, which even seemed better than the original.)
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Hello, well, if you type the reference + “sds” into Google, you get:
The green hybrid oil https://webcdn.intercars.eu/files/019931/08232-p99-s1lhe_%231.pdf
The green diesel oil https://webcdn.intercars.eu/files/019931/08232-p99-d1lhe_%231.pdf
In SECTION 3, you will find the ingredients that must be listed, and you will see that nothing matches, not even closely. In section 9, the little information there does not match either.
A good detail is that in 9.1 of the hybrid’s SDS, Kinematic viscosity 31.45 mm²/s (40°C) appears, which 99% corresponds to a 0w16. In the diesel’s SDS, that data is not provided (it states greater than 20.5, but that doesn’t help at all).
I’m really confused too, haha.
But well, it can’t be specified because nothing is 100% confirmed about this. It seems that the only way would be to get a reasonably decent sheet of that oil or to have it analyzed.
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Temperatures don’t matter much as long as they aren’t extreme and the car is used normally; the thermostat is responsible for regulating the temperature (of the coolant and indirectly that of the engine and oil). For now, I wouldn’t go below 0w30, in any case, the least viscous 0W30 you can find or a mix of 0w30 with 0w20 (my idea is to do something like this for the next change). It’s important that it is Acea C2, nothing of C3 (nor the C2+C3, which are really C3)… What I recommend the most is to change the oil frequently; 35k km per year but what use do you give it, what specific oil, and how often are you changing it?
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Well, problem solved, right? \nSearch results for 08232P99D6LHE\nIt. Selection of RAVENOL oil. turned out to be 0w20\nExtracted from your SDS file:\n
\nFrom the website I link, all the underlined codes:\n
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Well, I don’t know what area you’re from or what you consider extreme temperatures, but here in Castilla la Mancha and the southern area of Madrid, we’re over 40º in the summer… which happens in other areas too… but for me, that’s extreme 
My wife is self-employed and the IX is her work car, which is why she racks up so many kilometers. The car was bought in 2021 with 74… today it already has 190k… that makes an average of 30k… so the car is more than tested hahaha.
The oil is always changed at our Honda, well, actually all the parts for both Hondas are strictly serviced at the official dealership, so the oil they use is always 0w30. What did it have before? I don’t know, the book is stamped but who knows… but the car wasn’t poorly maintained. And the inspections are also strictly done when the car requires it, and with the kilometers it does, it triggers because of that, due to kilometers.
What I don’t see is mixing 0w20 and 0w30… I’m not really into mixing
Yesterday I saw a video by Juan José from Talleres Ebenezer that talks exactly about the noise we have… he doesn’t mention the Civics, but from what he describes in the video, I “feel” identified with our symptoms.
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You’re not discovering anything haha. We were discussing the references, they are not from the SDS (that’s how I got the SDS, let’s say). That’s what I was telling Dingo a few messages earlier; when searching for that reference in Ravenol, the DFE 0w20 appears (and not 0w16 as he said). That oil, moreover, looking at its datasheet (RAVENOL DFE SAE 0W-20 | RAVENOL), within 0W20 is actually one of the more viscous and mid SAPS (0.8 ash), which is not far from, for example, a Ravenol FES. Additionally, now API SQ which should protect the chain quite well, could be a great option. Besides, obviously being a quality oil.
But I don’t know if you remember the thread, in another Ravenol file it appeared as 0W16, the v2 of this oil (for Earth Dreams, our engine) they list it as 0W16… https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1896/29512060307_fd4f91622d.jpg
For me… Nothing resolved xD At most, resolved that at least it’s compatible with 0W20, but we don’t know anything for sure, not even that.
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I am also from Madrid and travel quite a bit around Spain (both colder areas in winter and hotter areas in Spain). Extreme climates are not what we have in Spain. Extremes can be those of Russia for cold and Dubai for heat.
I left the official dealership a long time ago (when the 5-year warranty ended), with inflated prices (as in all official ones), even though I don’t have it very far, they are not like neighborhood workshops I can walk to, the service leaves much to be desired and I’ve been to quite a few around Madrid.
Doing so many kilometers, the oil change will trigger at 20,000 km, I would try to reduce those kilometers, the rest of the maintenance I would do following the computer. If the car has always been taken to Honda, they will have also used 0W30. If you are going to continue taking it to Honda, there isn’t much choice, you stick with the 0W30 haha.
The Ebenezer workshops guy has come up several times, I liked him but he has turned into a real snake oil salesman with his magical products that well… I just watched the video, it does seem like that, or that seeing in forums and such it’s already known to be related to the chain. In a Facebook group, someone changed the chain tensioner and it seems to have fixed it. The “good” thing is that it seems to be just noise for now, I haven’t seen any cases of the chain breaking or anything like that.
One thing I highly recommend is doing a flush on the car. The ones used by moving the car, which don’t contain solvents (so they are not dangerous, you could drive with them always) and clean better. Specifically this one, following its instructions, let’s use it for 50-150 km before the oil change. Xenum M-flush: información y comprar I used it and it was noticeable that it cleaned quite a bit because the oil took a long time to turn black.
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